Dovetails and Draws
Many projects use dovetails in the basic joinery of the case as well as the drawers that go into it. Much of the frustration in making these pieces with hand tools can be traced back to tools that are not as sharp as they should be.
To address this issue, this one week class will cover two basic skills. For the first day or so we will tune up and sharpen each tool. Each student’s block planes, rabbet planes, marking gauges, chisels and scrapers will be ground and sharpened as needed so that they work perfectly.
In the remainder of the class we will practice drawer construction and cutting full, half blind, angled and blind mitred dovetails by hand. I promise that dovetails will never slow you down again! Using shortcuts and tricks that I’ve discovered over the years, we’ll do multiples of the most common forms so you can really get into the rhythm of making this essential joint by hand.
¼, ½, and ¾” dovetail or any thin edged chisel – Lie Nielsen bevel edge chisels or equivalent. Japan Woodworker has some nice looking Matsumura dovetail chisels for hardwoods, but pricey. Their cheaper white steel dovetail chisels would work also.
Low angle block plane – Lie Nielsen no. 60 ½ or equivalent
Marking gauge – Japan Woodworker # 98.033 or 98.255 or equivalent
Mallet – We have mallets or bring your own favorite
Mill bastard file – same one used for scraper filing
Dovetail saw – Veritas standard 14 TPI #153370 Woodcraft Supply or Lie Nielsen straight dovetail saw
Try square with arm between 4” and 12” – Starrett 6” #06L21 Woodcraft Supply or equivalent
Japanese saw – 6” beading saw #15.140.150 Japan Woodworker
Coping saw – Eclipse #154762 Woodcraft Supply
Waterstone – King 1200 grit #11H11 Woodcraft Supply
Strop – A piece of leather works, or a commercial one like Flexcut Paddle Strop #866263 Woodcraft Supply
Skew chisel – Pfeil 1S/5 #05A09 Woodcraft Supply
This is the basic list, but bring any other tools you might like to sharpen as well.