Well I guess you can tell I'm not that great at getting the text and the photos in the right place. I'm still getting the hang of it but you can get the gist of what's happening here. I posted a few photos in my album if this kind of thing catches your eye.

 

It was a challenge not to over do this thing with details and features a man sitting on a rock could achieve.  Well you know I did - you can see file marks on the wood here and there. I just couldn't help myself Virginia.

 

The color comes from a method you find over in the rifle builders camp that seems to be used less and less as the dyes and color options keep getting better in the present. I still like to pull out the old junk and make "Aqua Fortis" for my maple projects from time to time. Mostly small stuff without a ton of carving. You can see a half-stock rifle on a chair I posted done in Aqua fortis.

 

Aqua Fortis-- what is that?  Glad you asked. Its Nitric Acid with iron filing in it to cause a reaction. This can be mean stuff so do it outside.  You keep your solution in a glass jar and add the iron filings to get a concentration that you like. I have a friend who cuts brake linings all day and he fills a bucket with a powder-like dust of iron filings. I can just spoon it in a little at a time and I've had good luck with it. This is a tricky way to go but the maple just looks like nothing I've seen with aniline dyes.

 

When you put it on, it breaks your heart.  It turns the white maple almost green. UGLY. Don't despair. I keep an old leaf spring in the forge and heat it to a cherry red then I run it along the surface of the item(tomahawk) holding it about an inch or two away so I don't burn the wood. It will turn the green to a deep reddish brown and the stripes will really pop. Honest.

You're not done. You have to neutralize the acid. Baking soda and water do a nice job. Let her dry and you're in there. Truthfully, it's a bit more work than most care to do these days. Its fun to try and see if you like it.

 

It has some pitfalls:

1. It is water based and it makes your small carving features "fuzz up" at times. I tend to avoid the aqua fortis when I have labored over some small carvings on a rifle.

 

2. Folks- you have to neutralize the solution. I know it looks great but if you get fired up and slosh some oil on it-- you are in for a dissappointment. It is going to turn very dark as it continues to react. Eventuallly it will turn almost black. Don't forget now- I did warn you.

 

Why do this? It sounds so crazy. Well someday you might come up on a rifle done with aqua fortis on some nice curly maple and you will be amazed at the depth and contrast it imparts. Its all about choices I guess.  Wow --if you're still reading this I'm sure you've decided this guy is an egghead. Oh well it does keep me out of the bars.

 

later

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